Wednesday, April 25, 2012

Tallinn? Shoestring budget travel in Europe

...I%26#39;ve placed this same topic in the general Estonia forum as well.





My girlfriend and I are looking to travel to Europe for a single week in late October/early November, but we don%26#39;t have a ton of money. But I know that%26#39;s no excuse to let a dream die, so does anyone have any ideas? I%26#39;ve looked at multiple %26quot;Top 10 Budget Travel in Europe%26quot; lists, and many mention places I%26#39;ve briefly heard of, if at all. One of these places is Tallinn, which sounds breathtaking. Another is Vilnius. I%26#39;ve cosidered splittling a week between the two (possibly allowing for a day or two more in Tallinn), but also wanted to get any other ideas people may have considering budget travel in and around Europe. Though the above options sound pretty nice to me, I%26#39;d also like to know of any other options I have--I%26#39;ve read about Budapest, Bucharest, Prague, Krakow, Barcelona, etc.--the choices seem dizzying, and I want to insure I fill every day with the utmost, while still having enough money to do the little things. Any thoughts are welcome and appreciated - thanks!





P.S. We%26#39;re more interested in local coffee shops and bakeries, museums, etc. than we are bars and night clubs, if that helps.




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Also, we%26#39;re considering Istanbul - please incorporate your thoughts on this city when discussing your opinions - thanks again!!




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Prague, Krakow, Barcelona - we%26#39;ve visited these cities and each are briliant in their own right...



Paris is beautiful but expensive..



You%26#39;ve not mentioned Athens.... the cultural things to do plus the taverna scene....our longest city break was spent there.. we loved it and will go back at some stage..





We%26#39;re visitng Tallinn next march... and doesnt it look and sound fantastic...I%26#39;ve read the locals go to Cafe Chocolatiere for %26quot;real%26quot; hot chocolate and a cake....looking forward to this!



Hope you have a wonderful trip...




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It%26#39;s very tricky to know how to answer you inquiry without any idea of your budget and also what you are looking for in terms of sightseeing, culture, art, museums, shopping etc.. Of the cities I have visited on your list these are my impressions





Prague and Krakow are both cheap in terms of food and drink and both have a lot to offer historically, architecurally and culturally.





Tallinn, Barcleona and Istanbul are more expensive in terms of food and drink (though still pretty cheap compared to where I am in the UK) and each has a great mixture of museums, history, culture etc..





We%26#39;ve been to Barcelona once, Tallinn twice, Istanbul three times, Prague four times (though not in the last 2 years) and Krakow five times with a sixth visit planned.





I%26#39;d be happy to provide some more information on any of them but what is it that you would like out of the holiday? Art galleries, social history, theatre, music, museums, culture etc..?





Whichever one you chose your days will be filled as there is a lot to see and do in each of them however they are all unique and it is difficult to compare them without knowing a little more about what you want.





Hope that makes sense!




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Thanks so much for your thoughtful response! We are definitely looking for fascinating architecture--as my girlfriend put it, %26quot;I want to walk until I%26#39;m tired%26quot;. Museums are always an added bonus, especially for rainy days when you want to get something accomplished but the outdoors seems out of the question. As you can see from my first two answers, more than anything I%26#39;d say we%26#39;re interested in a place that%26#39;s got a lot of history to it. Concerning food, we%26#39;re big into local cuisines, so we%26#39;d love the chance to try new, exciting things that will keep us full and smiling without breaking the bank (while still leaving spare change for a yummy dessert after).





As for our budget, I%26#39;ve found that $800 per person seems the average cost to fly to any of these places, so would hope to spend little more than an additional $1000 for room/board, food, and fun (if at all possible).





Please let me know if I need to provide any more information so that you can provide an informed response--I%26#39;m not trying to be vague, I promise! :)




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Thanks - that%26#39;s really useful. Just putting a few thoughts together and will get back to you





Louise




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Thanks for the info- looking at what you have given I would say that of the cities you mentioned the three that seem to me to fit what you are looking for would be Istanbul, Krakow and Tallinn. Here are a few details of each plus some average prices based on our experience – we tend to stay at mid-price hotels and eat at mid-upper price restaurants.. though in Tallinn we have splurged out a bit which is reflected in the average price. You can probably do both cheaper. Anyway, it makes this a bit of a long post but here goes and I hope you find this useful





ISTANBUL is an amazing city with its Eastern and Western influences and a history that takes in Christian and Islamic Culture. It really is like nowhere else. Here are my highlights





TOPKAPI PALACE - Serene gardens, exquisitely decorated pavilions and the intriguing Harem



THE BLUE MOSQUE - beautiful artistry of construction and decoration both inside and out.



HAGIA SOPHIA - a magnificent feat of architecture with a dome that seems to hang in the air above the interior space



BASILICA CISTERN (Yerebatan Sarayi) - Eerie, haunting, unusual, fascinating



SULEYMANIYE MOSQUE - calm, peaceful and harmonious with fine masonry and decoration



GRAND BAZAAR and SPICE BAZAAR - Bustling, energetic, noisy and great, great fun.



BOSPHORUS CRUISE - watch minarets, mosques, yalis and villages slide past



THE HIPPODROME - marvel at the obelisks and imagine the chariots racing around this oval in front of cheering crowds



ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM - wonderful statues and mosaics plus the



amazing Alexander Sarcophagus



MUSEUM OF TURKISH AND ISLAMIC ARTS - a fascinating history of the development of art techniques and styles including wonderful calligraphy plus kilms and carpets



KYRIYE CAMII MUSEUM (ST. SAVIOUR IN CHORA) - amazing Byzantine mosaics, detailed and beautiful



GALATA TOWER - fantastic views over the Bosphorus, the city and beyond



DOLMABAHCE PALACE – 19th Century opulence and also home to Ataturk in the latter years of his life



YEDIKULE FORTRESS - scramble in and out of stone towers and along stone walkways and gaze across the Sea of Mamara



THODOSIAN WALLS – Although it can be difficult to climb on the walls themselves and part of the way is by a busy main road the walk takes you among areas of the city you may not otherwise see and the walls themselves, crumbling in places, are a fascinating insight into Istanbul as a fortress



ORTAKOY – nightlife and restaurants on the shore of the Bosphorus





Very easy to walk around, especially in Sultanahmet where a lot of the historical sights are situated and not far from there is the Bazaar Quarter. It is possible to walk across the Galaat Bridge to Beyoglu and up to Taksim but that is a fair walk so though we did do it (in reverse) it is easy and cheap to tram/metro it. You will need to take a bus/taxi to some places i.e. Ortakoy, Chora and Yedikule – but public transport is very cheap and taxis are not badly priced though I gather some people have been ripped of when using them (we never have been but..). However the majority of the time you will be walking and maybe using the tram to get between areas. As for local cuisine – there is loads! Fresh fish, kofkas and kebabs, yoghurt, stuffed aubergine and peppers, borek, baklava and strong, tasty Turkish coffee.





Accommodation (per room per night) - £61.00/$122.00



Evening Meal (3 course plus drink for TWO people) - £30.00/$60.00



Topkapi Palace + Harem - £7.50/$15.00



Hagia Sophia - £5.00/$10.00



Basilica Cistern – £3.50/$7.00



Beer - £3.00/£6.00



Coffee - £1.00/£2.00



Single Tram/Metro Journey - £0.60/$1.20





KRAKOW again has a wealth of culture and history, medieval streets, a castle on a hill, an old Jewish quarter and, in more recent years, occupation.





For major sights I would suggest - in no particular order that you visit





RYNEK GLOWNY - the Market square - actually you%26#39;ll probably find yourself in and around here a lot while you are in Krakow has it is the focal point of the Old Town. Take time to wander around and have a look at the architecture of the buildings surrounding the square and stop for coffee/beer/vodka or food in one of the many cafes and restaurants overlooking it.



SUKINNICE - the Old Cloth hall in the Rynel Glowny, a wonderful building - great architecture - there is a craft market in its arcades and



ST. MARY%26#39;S CHURCH - overlooking Rynek Glowny - beautifully decorated, you%26#39;ll seen get used to its recognisable silhouette. The carved high altar is astounding - visit just before midday to see the altar screen being opened



WAWEL HILL - home to the Castle and the Cathedral - wander round Wawel itself with great views over the river. The Castle has some wonderfully decorated rooms and the collection of tapestries is superb. The cathedral is quite small, intimate with a wealth of history and decoration



NATIONAL MUSEUM – great collection of 20th Century Polish Art from early 20th Century romantic paintings to modern installation and performance art



CZARTORYSKI MUSEUM – an eclectic collection of art and sculpture including Da Vinci’s “Lady with an Ermine”



ETHNOGRAPHICAL MUSEUM - a look at traditions, folklore and customs in rural Poland particularly in the 19th-early 20th Century.



KAZIMIERZ - the Jewish Quarter - lovely place to wander, interesting architecturally. The Jewish Museum within the Old Synagogue and Remu%26#39;h Cemetery are both fascinating and moving



PLANTY - if the weather is good this is a great place to walk off the lovely meals you%26#39;ll be having!



Day/Half Day Trips - from Krakow you can visit AUSCHWITZ - what can you say about going there, intense, upsetting, moving, never to be or should be forgotten. Also the SALT MINES at Wieliczka are fascinating.





It is very easy to walk around central Krakow, indeed with the exception of getting from the airport I don’t think we have ever taken public transport, just walked everywhere. Lots of places to get Polish cuisine – meaty stews and roasts such as the traditional dish bigos, salmon and trout feature quite heavily on menus and pierogi, which are kind of like filled dumplings. Some great coffee and cake shops as well. Plus Polish flavoured Vodka (cherry, honey, herb, mint) is just the best, dangerously addictive stuff!





Accommodation - £65.00/$130.00



Evening Meal (3 course plus drink for TWO people) - £29.00/$58.00



Royal Castle on Wawel Hill - £4.00/$8.00



National Museum - £3.30/$6.60



Czartoryski Museum - £1.90/$3.80



Beer/Vodka - £1.50/$3.00



Coffee - £1.50/$3.00



Tram/Bus Single Journey - £0.45/$0.90









TALLINN - Like Krakow Tallinn’s recent history has been marked by occupation and then independence, evidence of the cities maritime and mercantile past are much in evidence and the beautiful medieval old town is a UNESCO World Heritage sight. Also like Krakow is it is a city of myths, legends and stories





As to things to see and do I would suggest





THE OLD TOWN – wander round the cobbled streets and the Raekoja plats, the old town square and admire the wonderful architecture



TOOMPEA – the upper town, again a lovely place to wander among the cobbled streets and lovely buildings plus the viewing platforms has great panoramas over the old town and towards the port area



TALLINN CITY MUSEUM – learn about the social, cultural and political history of Tallinn, the way the Upper and Lower Towns were administered separately and what life was like under Soviet occupation



ESTONIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM – absolutely fascinating look at rural life in Estonia with reconstructed farm buildings, school rooms, a fire station and a beautiful chapel. It is also a lovely place for a walk among the tress and by the sea.



KADRIORG PALACE – beautiful baroque building built by Peter the Great and now home to Estonia’s foreign Art Collection



KUMU – amazing beautifully designed modern building which houses Estonia’s National Art Collection. A real mix of different arts styles – romanticism, expressionism, modernism, graphic art etc.. represents the changes in art both in Estonia, especially when exploring national identity, and beyond.



NIGULISTE KIRIK (St. Nicholas Church) – home to a number of medieval altar pieces and paintings including Bernadt Nokte’s compelling and eerie “Danse Macabre”.



KIEK IN DE KOK – The 118ft cannon tower is an impressive defensive bastion and includes an interesting exhibition relating to Tallinn’s city defences.



CITY WALLS – give a very good impression as to what the town’s defences must have been like as well as allowing opportunities to scramble up and in stone staircases and towers



MUSEUM OF OCCUPATIONS – explores life in the period 1940 to 1991 when the country was under Nazi then Soviet rule



THE TOWN HALL – this is not open all year round but if you are visiting in summer it is worth visiting the cellar, which hosts different exhibitions relating to the city’s history, the beautifully decorated Council and Citizens Hall and the Tower with lovely views over the Old Town



ST. OLAF’S CHURCH TOWER– again this is not open all year round but if it is the climb to the top is worth the marvellous views





It is very easy – and pleasant – to walk round Tallinn’s Old Town. Public transport is cheap (free if you go for the excellent value Tallinncard) and you will need to use this (or one of the Hop On-Hop Off City Tour Buses, also free with the Tallinncard) to reach Kadriorg, KUMU and the Open Air Museum. Local cuisine includes meat and fish dishes such as lovely fresh herrings, the medieval themed restaurants have some tasty offerings and Kama, a traditional drink/dessert, is just wonderful!





Accommodation - £84.00/$168.00



Evening Meal (3 course plus drink for TWO people) - £42.00/$84.00



72 Hour Tallinncard (TC) - £19.85/$39.70 (free entry to all major museums, free public transport, free hop on-hop off bus tours)



Kadriorg Palace – Free with TC or £2.00/$4.00



Tallinn City Museum – Free with TC or £1.55/$3.10



Niguliste Kirik – Free with TC or £1.55/$3.10



Beer - £1.70 to £2.00/$2.40 to $4.00



Coffee - £1.50/$3.00



Single Journey on tram/bus – free with TC - £0.44/£0.88




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Funny enough, those are the three places we%26#39;d been doing a majority of our time looking into--I think we%26#39;d landed on them as out only %26quot;real%26quot; choices for this venture as well. Thanks for all the great info--we%26#39;ll take some time to really look it over, and will then respond with any foolow-up questions we may have...or better yet, where we%26#39;ve decided to go! :)





-Chris




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Well, we decided we wanted to go everywhere previously mentioned, but had neither the time or money for such a venture...so takign the weather into consideration, we%26#39;ve decided on Istanbul, Turkey (and I actually just booked the flight little more than 15 minutes ago). Can%26#39;t wait!





Again, thanks for all your help and recommendations!





-Chris




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Try Air Baltic www.airbaltic.com for cheap flights between Tallinn and Vilnius. I saw some for end of November for 36 euros one way from Vilnius to Tallinn, including all taxes (1 euro=1.41 USD). Estonian Air also offers flights. From Vilnius to Poland there are a lot of trains and buses. Air Baltic has very cheap flights from Vilnius to Berlin, easyJet from Tallinn to Berlin, where you can get five-hour train to Prague (about 5 trains per day). Train connections from Prague to Bucharest are good, too. For flights within eastern Europe try Sky Europe or Wizz Air. Sometimes Lot Polish Airlines has half decent deals. Two weeks ago I bought tickets from Berlin via Milan to Bucharest for mid November for 63 euros roundtrip, incl taxes. Sky Europe has really good prices into and out of Vienna (including Bucharest), but within Europe you%26#39;re checked luggage is usually limited to 20 kilos, just one suitcase plus carry-on. Wizz Air has a big hub in Budapest. And join the frequent flier club of whichever airline you%26#39;re flying with and you%26#39;ll have a free ticket after 2 or 3 trips to Europe. US airlines much more generous with mileage accrual than Europeans. Delta offers a lot of flights to eastern Europe. Continental has good connections to Germany and from there you can get cheap flights to eastern Europe.




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Sorry I forgot to say the cheap fare from Berlin via Milan to Bucharest was on easyJet.

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